Reykjavik, Iceland: Radisson SAS 1919

Radisson SAS 1919 Hotel  **** (see end of this item for an explanation of the one-to-six star rankings)

Posthusstraeti 2

101 Reykjavik

+354 599 1000

Room rates: $225-$400 depending on the season

The 1919 is the newest--and most upscale--of three Radisson SAS hotels in Iceland's capital and big city, Reykjavik.  Just opened this spring, the hotel is all minimalist design with 70 rooms made roomy in no small part because of unusually high, loft-height ceilings. 

The decor is Scandanvian spartan.  Rooms have blond wood floors with no carpeting, a minimum of wall art, low beds with sheet duvets, flat screen TVs, and metal and black-wood desks and bedside tables.  The good-sized and well-lit bathrooms have simple, white-tiled walls and a fashionable, small, white sink inset on a slab of black Corian running the length of one wall.  The toilet is wall mounted.  Some rooms have baths; others, like mine, have no bath but a huge, walk-in shower with good water pressure.   

Toiletries are presented in small, plastic capsules mounted on what looks more like a spice rack than a bathroom fixture.  The orange bath gel is called "Gentle Orange," the shampoo is "Zest of Lemon," and the liquid soap is "Hint of Apple."  There's a one-line desk phone, bedside phone and bathroom phone as well as free, high-speed Internet access.  (It's wireless and also complimetary in the hotel's lobby.)  Heat is from radiators as befits a country whose biggest asset is its wealth of geothermal hot water that's used to heat homes and offices.

Thanks to the high ceilings at the 1919, the room windows are tall and may be opened to let in sunlight and fresh air.  But unless you've requested an interior courtyard room, you'll want to close those windows at night.  Reykjavik is famous for its downtown nightlife that begins around midnight and stretches into dawn.  And the party spills into the streets around the 1919.  Normally rather proper and formal, some Icelanders turn wild after a few drinks, swaying through the narrow streets shouting to friends all night.  Maybe, one guest said to me, that's why the hotel doesn't have a clock anywhere in its rooms--then you'd know just how much sleep you aren't getting.  So either join the revelers or bring your own earplugs so you can sleep.  Either way, be careful where you step the next morning--public vomiting isn't unusual. 

My three-night stay at the Radisson SAS 19191 wasn't entirely flawless.  There was no one to help with luggage upon my early morning arrival.  The operator failed to deliver a wake-up call one morning.  When CNN stopped appearing on my television a day after I checked in, the front desk promised to send someone to my room to check on the situation, but no one ever showed up.  Otherwise, the staff was pleasant, though great service isn't necessarily a hallmark of northern European countries.  I'm hoping as this hotel matures, the staff will increase its attention to details. 

Breakfast is included in your room rate, and the morning buffet features salmon and herring, great breads, cheeses, fresh yoghurt, resh fruits (but not freshly squeezed juices), and scrambled eggs with all sides. 

This is a very nice hotel.  Its clean interior design makes you feel as if you're in Denmark, the country that gave Iceland its independence in the '40s.  The cost of a night's stay at the 1919 may surprise Americans, given that Reykjavik is essentially a small town.  Heck, the population of all of Iceland is less than 300,000.  But a high demand for hotel rooms, a booming economy, and a relatively weak US dollar all translate into room rates Americans more commonly associate with much larger urban luxury hotels.  But even nice local bed & breakfasts can run $75 per peson and a double room with shared bath at the pleasant, well-located Salvation Army guesthouse costs more than $100.  Meaning no matter how you cut it, Reykjavik is an expensive city.

A thumbnail guide to Rudy's ratings of hotels:

One star: A clean, simple, utilitarian and inexpensive hotel, usually in a location of little note.

Two stars: A property with a better location than a one-star and rooms with modest amenities.

Three stars: Guests can expect more amenities, such as a restaurant or breakfast in the lobby as well as, in warmer climes, a swimming pool and, in the bath, toiletries and thicker towels.

Four stars: Usually a mid-priced business or leisure hotel that provides upgraded bedding and bath aminities along with a fine-dining restaurant, high-speed wi-fi access, room safe, in-room mini-bar and other touches.  At this level, you should find a knowledgable staff available to answer any questions and meet most any need. 

Five stars: Expect top-shelf bedding and bath products, a pleasant design, good location, and extras such as around-the-clock room service, a handsome setting, striking interior and exterior design or landscape, impeccable rooms, spa or noteworthy fitness facility and an ultra-accommodating staff. 

Six stars: This over-the-top rating applies to only a handful of hotels and resorts in the world.  Expect to find most imaginable amenities, a spectacular setting, a highly trained staff that anticipate your wishes, and an ambience that makes you never want to check out.